KITTENS: $500 + PST

ADULT CATS (1 year and Over): $400 + PST

DOGS & PUPPIES: $750 + PST

All adoptions include:

  • First round of standard “core” vaccinations (does not include rabies or feline leukemia)**. If the animal is in care when any boosters are due we will ensure this done as well. If the animal is adopted prior to the due date of the booster it is the responsibility of the adopter to get this done at their vet of choice at their own expense.
  • Flea and other external parasite treatments as required
  • Routine deworming and other internal parasite treatments as required
  • Spay or neuter surgery (In some rare circumstances the animal will be adopted out prior to surgery. The adopter agrees to return the kitten at the time and place previously booked to have the surgery completed at our expense)
  • Microchip identification implant and registration.
  • Medical treatment if required while in our care
  • Daily monitoring.

Adopting an animal is a serious, long-term commitment—not a purchase you can “try out” and return like a retail item. These are living beings who bond, grieve, and are impacted by disruption. We will always take our animals back if it doesn’t work out—because their safety comes first—but adoption fees are not refundable, and we ask adopters to move forward only when they’re confident they’re ready for the responsibility.

We no longer offer adoption trials. This policy exists to protect the emotional wellbeing of the animals and to set them up for the best possible chance of long-term success.

Trials often lead to animals being placed temporarily and then returned prematurely because they have not been given a fair chance to settle in. Animals in a new environment may behave out of fear, uncertainty, or discomfort simply because they are not yet comfortable or trusting. Many behaviours seen in the first couple of weeks are part of the normal adjustment period and do not reflect the animals true personality.
We also have to consider the cumulative impact that repeated moves can have on a rescue animal. Many of these pets have already experienced significant instability before they arrive in care. When a pet is surrendered, moved into foster, sent to a trial adopter, returned, placed into a different foster home (because the original foster space has already been filled), and then sent out again to another potential adopter, that is an enormous amount of disruption for one animal to go through.

Each move means new people, new routines, new surroundings, and a complete loss of stability. That level of upheaval can create stress and confusion, and it can affect behaviour. A pet who is repeatedly uprooted may appear more anxious, shut down, unsettled, or reactive, not because that is their true nature, but because they have been asked to start over again and again and again.

Because of this, we place pets in homes that are prepared to work through the adjustment period rather than adopt them temporarily. We want adopters to understand that rescue pets need time to decompress, build trust, and feel safe before their true personality can fully emerge.

If there are concerns about whether resident dogs will get along, we strongly encourage proper introductions before adoption. Adopters are welcome to meet the dog at the foster home and bring their own dog for a meet and greet. Introductions are done on leash in a neutral outdoor space so the dogs can interact safely and appropriately.

In rare circumstances where there is a legitimate safety concern or a very unique situation, such as an animal with specific behavioural needs, we may discuss a structured short-term trial on a case-by-case basis.

Lots of our cats were trapped in the community and have past trauma as a result. They will be loving cats, but their introduction and start in your home is vital. We will be careful to identify our shy cats and ask that you follow all the steps below when your first bring them home.

To help a shy cat it’s important to be patient and provide a safe and enriching environment. Here are some steps you can follow:

  1. Create a quiet space: Set up a designated area in your home where the shy cat can retreat to feel safe. Include a cozy bed, hiding spots, and scratching posts in this space.
  2. Do not free feed! These cats need to be shown that you are a safe person. They need a reason to come out and learn that’s it ok and the only reason we can give them is food. Otherwise they hide and take a very very very long time to trust. This is the most important step!

    Day 1: allow them to decompress and hide. Leave the food out for this one day only and let them rest. Do not ask anything of them on day one.

    Day 2 and 3: Now the work begins. They don’t eat if you aren’t in the room. If you leave, so does the food. Don’t force pats or cuddles, just put the food out and talk to them. If that feels uncomfortable, then read a book outloud. It doesn’t matter what you say. All that matters is that you are using a speaking voice. If you absolutely need to leave for work for an extended period of time (12 hour shift), leave them just a little bit of food so they are hungry enough to put on their big girl/big boy panties and come out to eat with you in the room when you return. If you are simply leaving for a regular 8 hour shift them do not leave out any food and wait until you are back from work to continue with your training.

    Day 4: Now the food needs to be right beside you. Try not to tower over them. Still don’t touch them. But either sit on the floor immediately beside the food dish or have the food dish on the couch beside you.

    Day 5 and 6: Now they don’t get to eat unless you are touching them. Slow pats or strokes as they eat. You are almost done! Once you pat them they may retreat, but they will come back because they are hungry and you pat again. You are the boss!

    Day 7: At this point you are mostly done. Just continue to associate food with your company. They will transfer their good feeling about food to be good feelings about you.

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    During this entire time you can also offer high value treats like temptations or churu treats. Even better if you put the churu treat on your fingers (on day 3/4 or later) to have them lick it off you.

    Have patience and understand this works! We follow the same pattern before we put them up for adoption. When you meet them you might see more open behavior’s, but know that the move to a new home is upsetting and they might have to take a step back in training.

    We will not be putting them up for adoption, if this process hasn’t worked already. Know that if it worked with us, it will work like a charm with you.
  3. Use positive reinforcement: Reward the cat’s brave behavior (when they approach without food being the motivator) with treats, praises, or playtime. Start by rewarding small steps, such as approaching you or exploring a new space. Gradually increase the expectations as the cat becomes more comfortable.
  4. Provide mental stimulation: Engage the cat in interactive play sessions using toys like wand toys or puzzle feeders. This helps build their confidence and redirects their focus from fear.

Remember that every cat is unique, and the time it takes for them to blossom may vary. Be patient, understanding, and give them the space they need to feel safe. If you have any concerns or the cat’s behavior doesn’t improve, let us know and we will work with you to sort it out.